50 B4 50-The Fat Duck

The Fat Duck

This restaurant has been an ambition for many, many years and at last the day has come thanks to my wife's generous Birthday present.

As we got ready we thought it wise to check the Dress Code -which read; 'Come along however you feel comfortable'. I resisted wearing shorts and tee shirt. I say 'resisted', what I actually mean is my wife told me; 'you can do that over your dead body!'.

Looking lovely, we arrived in Bray, which now has 2 pubs owned by Heston Blumenthal, his 'Experimental Kitchen', a building for staff dining and down a small lane about 400 yards long, is Alain Roux's Waterside Inn, which is the best restaurant we have been fortunate enough to have dined in.

The Fat Duck itself is in an unpretentious converted cottage and simply decorated inside.

The greeting was warm, informal and friendly and when we arrived at the table the first thing we noticed was nothing. Usually you would expect expensive charger plates, fine crystal, gleaming cutlery and table decorations. All we had was a plain white linen table cloth with a small bowl of flowers, that was it.

The Fat Duck has one menu and everyone dining has the same - a tasting menu with 14 courses! 

When booking, you are told to 'Allow 4 1/2 hours for this menu'. I had suggested to my wife we could bring a book or iPod, but one look told me that was a bad idea, this was followed by a clear instruction; 'You can talk to me'. Not being an expert at chatting unnecessarily, I reluctantly agreed to give it a go.

The menu was described as "A sequence of dishes designed not only to capture a delicious and exciting range of flavours, textures and aromas, but also to bring multi-sensory appeal, some culinary history and a sense of theatre to the dining experience."

As we dined, none of that statement could be argued with. It would be too much to go blow by blow through each course, but the main highlights were the 'Beetroot & Horseradish' canapé which exploded with flavours and surprising textures in the mouth and was amazing on every level. The famous Snail Porridge was as tasty as weird, I had the best scallop I have ever tasted, The 'Mad Hatters Tea Party' was spectacular to look at and the theatrical staging from the dissolvable watch to the mad toast sandwiches pure theatre.

If I hadn't tasted it, I wouldn't have believed it, - but one course, the 'Hot & Iced Tea' could not be explained, - as you drunk, the liquid in your mouth was hot on one side, and on the other cold! - no idea how they did this one. I could go on through the menu, as there is so much, that is so good.

There was only one course my wife did not like as she is not keen on 'smoky' flavours, I, on the other hand love them, so with a stroke of luck I got two portions of the Jelly of Quail. Sadly, she liked all of the sweet courses so I was rationed to my own portions.

One extra nice touch was when one of our waitresses spotted my wife was left handed (yes, I know - weird), from then on she laid her cutlery the other way round for each course.

It was now clear why the table setting was so 'plain', it was to ensure that everything was totally focussed on each creation bought to the table.

As the fourteenth course arrived I had done OK on the 'talking thing', hadn't upset or offended anyone, nor had any of my wife's 'looks' - so things had turned out pretty well. As I sat, very contented and full, I was now hoping I could now have a rest from 'talking' for a few weeks.

We had heard the The Fat Duck was more about the 'theatre' than the food. Our experience differs - we were definitely blown away by the 'theatre', but it is more than that, the food was delicious, flavours as clever as they were unusual, and everything was a feast for the eyes, senses and mind.

This is not food you can eat everyday, but as a once in a lifetime experience it was one of our best.

Tasting Menu - 14 Courses

NITRO POACHED APERITIFS

Vodka and Lime Sour, Gin and Tonic, Tequila and Grapefruit

RED CABBAGE GAZPACHO

Pommery Grain Mustard Ice Cream

JELLY OF QUAIL, CRAYFISH CREAM

Chicken Liver Parfait, Oak Moss and Truffle Toast

click image to enlarge

SNAIL PORRIDGE

Iberico Bellota Ham, Shaved Fennel

ROAST FOIE GRAS

Barberry, Confit Kombu and Crab Biscuit

MAD HATTER'S TEA PARTY (c.1892)

Mock Turtle Soup, Pocket Watch and Toast Sandwich

"SOUND OF THE SEA"

SALMON POACHED IN A LIQUORICE GEL

Artichoke, Vanilla Mayonnaise and Golden Trout Roe

click image to enlarge

UMBLE PIE

HOT AND ICED TEA

EGGS IN VERJUS (c.1726), VERJUS IN EGG (c.2013)

BOTRYTIS CINEREA

WHISK(E)Y WINE GUMS

"LIKE A KID IN A SWEET SHOP"

click image to enlarge

Footnote: The Fat Duck Restaurant is moving to the Crown Towers Hotel in Melbourne, Australia for 6 months from January 2015. We chatted to our sommelier, and she excitedly told us that this meant everyone from the Fat Duck was going; that was the kitchen brigade of 20+, all of the front of house team of around 16 people, plus every pot, pan and plate from the kitchen!

Whilst they are all away, The Fat Duck in Bray is being fully refurbished. No doubt Heston will be launching something new and wonderful when he reopens. So, just as we took one of our biggest wishes off the list, it looks like a new one will be going on later next year!

In the meantime, back to reality and good home cooked food. All food is great, and often the company is more important than what is on the plate. (With a bit of luck that last comment will score me lots of brownie points to cash in for the stupid things I am bound to do over Christmas!)

The Fat Duck

High Street, Bray, Berkshire SL6 2AQ

www.thefatduck.co.uk

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50 B4 50-DINING CHALLENGE

Michelin Stars Collected So Far: 46

50 B4 50 Challenged explained: click here

3 Michelin Star
London: Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester
Berkshire-Bray: The Fat Duck
Berkshire-Bray: The Waterside Inn
Bruges, Belgium: De Karmeliet

2 Michelin Star

London: La Gavroche, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Hibiscus, Pied a Terre, Marcus.
Berkshire: Michael Wignall at The Latymer (Penny Hill Park Hotel) (*Twice)
Buckinghamshire: Hand & Flowers (*3 Times!)
France-Paris: Georges V Hotel

1 Michelin Star
London: Benares, L’Autre Pied, Quilon, Social Eating House (*Twice), Veeraswamy, The Savoy Grill, L’Escargot
Hampshire: Terrace Restaurant (Montague Arms), Vetiver (Chewton Glen Hotel), JSW.
Sussex: Ockenden Manor

*To read the review on any of the above restaurants, put 'restaurant name' in this blog's search box.

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No Michelin Stars, but restaurants visited since July 2013 that are worth a mention:

Milford on Sea | Verveine Fishmarket Restaurant- www.verveine.co.uk

London | Franco's - www.francoslondon.com
Milford on Sea | La Perle - www.laperlemilford.co.uk
Mudeford | The Jetty - www.thejetty.co.uk
Yarmouth, IoW | The George - www.thegeorge.co.uk
London | Dishoom - www.dishoom.co.uk

London | J Sheeky Oyster Bar - www.jsheekeyoysterbar.co.uk

Lymington | The Elderflower - www.elderflowerrestaurant.co.uk
London | The Ivy - www.the-ivy.co.uk
Lymington | The Haven - www.havenrestaurant.co.uk

Devon | River Cottage HQ - www.rivercottage.net/hq 
Guildford | Brittens - www.brittensrestaurant.com